Skiing in France: Les Menuires or Val d’Isère? Decisions, decisions

THE FRENCH ALPS — There’s no shortage of amazing ski resorts in the French Alps.

Here are two of the best-known and most popular, sure to become favourites depending on the skier.

LES MENUIRES WITH FAMILY

Not only are Les Menuires located in the heart of the largest ski area on the planet – the Trois-Vallées, with 600 km of skiing on 339 slopes with 160 lifts – they also allow you to travel to the six other resorts, all inter-connected.

Whether you take a shuttle or a lift, you have access to the areas of young and festive Val Thorens, the very upscale Courchevel, the clean and British-friendly Méribel, the hamlets of Orelle and Brides-les-Bains and the picturesque Saint-Martin, whose alpine village nestles in the heart of the Belleville valley, full of charming towns.

On the ski side, Les Menuires spreads out on two slopes (La Masse and Mont de la Chambre) like a sort of large open bowl, without trees and crisscrossed by small ski boulevards which zigzag between multiple ungroomed sectors.

Inaugurated in 1964, the resort peaks at 2850 m and there are no less than 76 slopes (mostly for beginners) served by 28 lifts, including the ultra-fast Masse gondola, brand new, which takes skiers from the bottom of the valley to its highest peaks in eight minutes. From that high up, the 360-degree views are breathtaking and Mont Blanc rises in the distance like a pyramid of splendour.

Les Menuires is also the most affordable resort in the Trois-Vallées, in addition to having a host of ski instructors and enjoying an impressive hotel capacity, which makes it an ideal choice for the family. No less than 40 restaurants punctuate the different ‘neighbourhoods’ of the village, including several mountainettes, old shepherds’ houses converted into terrace restaurants, directly on the slopes.

Not far from there, the village of Saint-Marcel is home to the only Michelin-starred restaurant in the valley, La Bouitte, and we came by helicopter from Courchevel to enjoy it.

Also popular for mountain skiing with climbing skins, off-piste skiing and cross-country skiing, the Menuires resort has fun areas for young people and a wide variety of accommodation for all budgets, including these:

  • Hotel Ours Blanc: Recently renovated from top to bottom, this ski-in/ski-out establishment includes a foyer area, a library / games room, an indoor/outdoor swimming pool with spa and excellent hearty breakfasts.
  • ho 36: minimalist and youth hostel style, this ‘hostel’ has a restaurant, two bars and beautiful common areas, and it is perfect for small budgets, in a room or dormitory (from 20 euros /night).

Info: lesmenuires.com; for the latest news from the resort (and the 3 Valleys), click here.

HIGH CLASS IN VAL D’ISÈRE

Inaugurated in 1930 and popularized as much by the cult film ‘Les Bronzés font du ski’ as by the Albertville Olympic Games of 1992, Val d’Isère is one of the legendary resorts of the French Alps.

Naturally connected to the vast neighbouring area of Tignes, punctuated by high altitude glaciers easily accessible and skiable all year round, it extends into the heart of Vanoise national park and culminates at 3000 m, which allows it to stretch the season until May, thanks to its exposure and its abundant natural snowfall.

Located at the very end of the last skiable valley east of Lyon (the Tarentaise), just before the Italian border, the Val d’Isère/Tignes area has 163 slopes (half for beginners and intermediates) totaling 300 km and spread over 10,000 hectares.

Here again, the spectacular scenery of grandiose peaks and summits unfolds in all directions while the 1,900 m drop in altitude promises long descents, such as on the legendary face of Bellevarde, an Olympic slope with an incline of 65%. The possibilities for mountain skiing and off-piste skiing are countless, and you can also practice fat biking, cross-country skiing and aerial climbing, including at night.

One of the great pleasures of staying in Val d’Isère is its charming village, all made of stone, wood and slate roofs, where it’s good to stroll before taking advantage of the numerous après-ski possibilities, whether at the bar or the restaurant – Val d’Isère has four starred restaurants.

To stay a five-minute walk from the ski lifts and the Bellevarde face, in the heart of the village, check out Hotel Le Val d’Isère, a chic three-star (worth four) recently renovated with ultra-comfortable rooms, indoor swimming pool, spa and excellent breakfasts.

Info : valdisere.com; for more updates, click here.

TO KNOW

This year, Les Menuires opens its season on Dec. 9 and Val d’Isère, on Dec. 2.

To reach these two ski areas, the most practical way is to fly with Air Canada, which connects Montreal to Lyon nonstop three times a week throughout the year.

Other tour operators offering ski holidays in France include Voyages Gendron, Sportvac and Tours Altitude (a division of Tours Chanteclerc).

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