ONBOARD AMAMAGDALENA — When Kristin Karst and Rudy Schreiner pioneered cruising on Colombia’s Magdalena River, aiming to entice passengers loyal to AmaWaterways’ luxe signature style on European rivers to discover the country’s natural beauty and abundant wildlife, they invested in cultivating a purely Colombian experience.

By building infrastructures in remote riverside communities and hiring local Colombian experts for the 62-passenger AmaMagdalena, launched in April 2025, and twin 64-passenger AmaMelodia, launched in September 2025, they ultimately created an experiential mix of classic river cruising with immersive expedition elements.

AmaWaterways offers two itineraries in this part of the world: ‘Wonders of Colombia’ sails from Cartagena to Barranquilla while ‘Magic of Colombia’ does the reverse. The total 583 km journey links Cartagena, on the Atlantic’s Bay of Cartegena, via a man-made channel called Canal del Dique to the Magdalena River, which flows from the height of the Andes Mountains through Colombia’s heartland before reaching Barranquilla at the Caribbean Sea.

On my recent sailing, Barranquilla’s Carnival dancers stepped to the beat of drums and tambourines, and bright skirts twirled as costumed characters jumped in with antics that got plenty of laughs. This taste of Barranquilla’s annual Carnival, recognized by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity, was just one stand-out experience and the capper on AmaWaterways’ seven-night cruise from Cartagena to Barranquilla, on AmaMagdalena’s Wonders of Colombia itinerary.

Passengers who book AmaWaterways’ pre-cruise Cartagena package stay at the luxurious Sofitel Santa Marta Hotel

“LIKE A FLOATING BOUTIQUE HOTEL”

AmaMagdalena is perfectly sized for the powerful river. For me, the ship exuded the intimate atmosphere of a floating boutique hotel, comfortably configured with vast windows for navigating through scenic, jungle-fringed waters.

At boarding level, Salsa Deck 1 has a double staircase (no elevator) accessing all three decks, and houses passenger and crew cabins. Cumbia Deck 2 houses the forward Captain’s wheelhouse and passenger cabins; mid-ship reception, cruise manager’s desk and gift shop, with the dining room and galley at aft.

Luna Deck 3 includes the indoor lounge used for lectures and folkloric performances, a spa, plus a small aft patio for smokers. Its forward outdoor terrace includes ample seating, a raised pool, plus a shaded area to host al fresco events including the Bolivar Chef’s Table specialty restaurant.

The forward Luna deck features a pool with plenty of seating. Taken just after sunrise, this view shows AmaMagdalena docked alongside Mompox

ROOMS WITH A VIEW

Cabins feature an outside balcony with two chairs and a small table, plus a French balcony with lounge chair, desk and chair. Bathrooms house double sinks and shower with refillable toiletries by Colombian Co.rozo brand. Amenities include a safe, multiple outlets for U.S. and European devices plus USB ports, as well as two sets of QuietVox devices to use on tours. WiFi is complimentary, with in-house app for daily schedules. AmaMagdalena accommodations range from 237-sq. ft. to two 516-sq. ft. Grand Suites; AmaMelodia to 306-sq. ft. Luxury Suites.

AmaMagdalena’s well-designed cabins feature a balcony with two chairs and table plus a French balcony

STANDOUT EXCURSIONS

Soon after embarking AmaMagdalena in Cartagena, where passengers toured the four centuries’ old walled city recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the transitioning Getsemani area, I realized the itinerary is cleverly designed to reveal Colombia’s historic evolution from Spanish colonial times, the people’s vibrant cultures that mingle European, African and Indigenous roots, and the land’s flourishing biodiversity thriving with more than 2,000 bird species, 150 mammals and some 300 fish, reptiles and amphibians.

A mural in Barranquilla, depicting how poor locals who could not afford balls learned to play baseball with bottle caps

Welcoming passengers, Cruise Manager Shadia Odarte, who was previously Secretary of Culture for Colombia’s Santa Marta region, said we will see some communities verging on progress. “They haven’t been open to the world. You bring the world to them.”

Every excursion evoked appreciation for the locals. Among highlights: A short drive from Mahates, Palenque, founded in 1503 as the first ‘free town’ in the Americas, is recognized by UNESCO for Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity because the people preserved their unique language, music and culture. Here we participated in a drum performance, met a local herbalist and visited a traditional home built of bamboo and clay.

Expeditions led by expert river guides introduced the flora, fauna and local way of life. At Tacaloa Mouth, fishermen showed how they cast nets. Along the coastline, we saw riverside homes of the ‘amphibian people’ who tend water buffalo.

Sunrise and sunset expeditions into Cienaga de Pijino Swamp provided sensational birdwatching. Besides three Kingfisher species, Neotropical Cormorants, Great Blue Herons, White Egrets and flocks of huge Wood Storks, we saw iguanas and a family of red Howler Monkeys roaring from their high tree perch.

Two nights in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Santa Cruz de Mompox, known for its international jazz festival, featured tuk-tuk tours of the historic architecture, as well as a workshop where we learned to craft silver filigree jewelry. In Santa Barbara de Pinto, an artisan tobacco farmer rolled tobacco leaves, and locals performed a ritual dance.

TASTING COLOMBIA’S GASTRONOMY

Along the way, Executive Chef Sebastian Coronel created gastronomic specialties of Colombia.

At a fruit tasting session, he explained how the sweetness, acidity and texture of Colombia’s fruits are used to balance flavours.

Executive Chef Sebastian Coronel uses a diverse variety of Colombian fruits to enhance the gastronomic dishes onboard AmaMagdalena

Spiced seafood stirfry prepared Colombia-style

CULTURAL IMMERSION

Visiting entertainers, including famed Mompox jazz musicians, wowed passengers with their talent. A troupe from El Banco performed the ritual Cumbia dance, then engaged passengers to beat drums, shake maracas and step to the rhythm of the music. With these moves, plus salsa lessons on board, passengers were delighted to join the Barranquilla Carnival dancers by end of the cruise.

Colombian artisans are known for their intricate work. This shop of woven bucket bags stands at near AmaMagdalena’s dock at Mompox

TRAVEL ADVISOR TIPS

Although this cruise is easy on fit travellers, getting on and off the riverboats is not recommended for clients requiring walkers or wheelchairs.

AmaWaterways offers pre- and/or post-cruise extensions in Cartagena, Bogota and Medellin as well as Panama City, Panama.

As a solo traveller, my pre-cruise experience was well worth the fee for the combination of transfers, expertly guided tours plus accommodations within Cartagena’s historic walled city. Pre-cruise accommodation is at the Sofitel Santa Marta, the luxurious hotel that started as a convent and later served as a hospital.

Lead image caption: The famed Barranquilla Carnival dancers performed for AmaMagdalena passengers in a shady port-side venue built by AmaWaterways; Santa Barbara Church in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Santa Cruz de Mompox; AmaMagdalena on Colombia’s Magdalena River (all photos throughout courtesy Toby Saltzman)